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Into the polar night

I wanted to travel into the polar night for some time now and this year, in late January, I finally had the opportunity to do it while on a trip in Tromsø, and flew up in Svalbard, right into the heart of it.

The first impact is while on the airplane and it starts getting darker and darker, even though I left Tromsø in the morning, and it was supposed to be more and more light normally, it just went from a dim light into complete darkness. I was impressed even by the cabin crews announcement when they said that we are flying into the polar night and this is something completely normal at this latitude and so close to the North Pole in this time of the year.

Since it was my third time in Longyearbyen, Svalbard I knew what to expect from the town and basically felt just like home, just with a twist darkness. I previously went in October, both times, because it’s around my birthday, and then you get to see more of the breathtaking mountains that surround the town, plus the cotton candy skies in that period are insane. But, getting back to this time around, it was the same place, but as I knew it by night.

Except wanting to experience 24h of darkness, the complete lack of light also brings with it an extended period of northern lights that I really wanted to capture again, since back in Tromsø the weather was ugh, cloudy and raining most of the time (global warming is real and the Arctic is the ‘best’ place to actually see the catastrophe). And Aurora it was. After a delicios fika at Fruene, with the world’s best Verdens Beste – that kinda doubles the fact – during an afternoon walk behind the Radisson, some faint lights started appearing and while staring at the sky and seeing the stars so clear, that even the moving sattelites were visible, the northern lights started to be more and more visible.

After probably one hour outside and almost freazing, while the lights dimmed down a bit, I needed a break and went to Coop, that was nearly closing, and back to the hotel. After a short break and some relax, an evening walk was required and it again paid off with another row of northern lights. As if this was not enough, I finally got to see the famous Svalbard reindeer up close and managed to take some great shots if it and the Aurora in the background. What else could you expect? I feel like those pictures just capture the highlights of the polar night. I have a feeling that the reindeer only come into town while dark outside, I don’t know if this is documented, but in my previous other visits, I never saw them except out in the wilderness, while I was out on a boat heading to Pyramiden, and a year later to Barentsburg.

The next morning was again a very interesing experience, to see that it’s like 8-9 AM and there is total darkness outside. You don’t really feel like getting up. At least your body doesn’t, while you mind is mecanically requesting it because of the time.

I don’t know if I could do this for a longer period, but just as an experience, I for sure recommend it. My trip into the polar night was short, but definitelly intense and came back with lots of fond memories, something that always happens while in Svalbard, it’s just that place of the heart.

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Why visit the Faroe Islands?

An simple answer would be just so. But it’s not just some place that may sound exotic if you and geography are not really friends. It’s a gorgeous place, with lots of nature, high mountains, puffins, green grass, sheeps and the most dreamlike towns. Not to mentions the infrastructure that is quite remarcable for such a remote place in the Atlantic Ocean.

Once I landed on Vagar airport and took the bus towards the capital, Tórshavn, and I was fascinated by what I saw. A short way of describing it is making 2 references to other places I’ve been in, Iceland and Svalbard, but the green version of it. The language sounds a lot like Icelandic, the writing looks like it and they even have Bónus supermarkets.

I stayed in the largest city and capital, Tórshavn, a peaceful place, with most people so calm, with a dreamy Old Town, where you can also find the Faroese Parliament, and overall just a relaxing atmosphere everywhere. The public buses are free so you can move around the not so big city very easily.

I have a list of the things that you simply must see if here: the entire small peninsula of Tinganes, explore all the small streets, but without disturbing the residents, go to the Faroe Islands National Museum, that also has an open air museum across the road, explore the Svartafoss Waterfall on your way back downtown if you feel a bit adventurous, but still wanna be within the city, Viðarlundin í Havn, the central park – forest for some great fresh air, visit the only beach in the city, Sandagerð, or have a panoramic view of the city from Kongaminnið, that is pretty close downtown, or have an adventure and take one of the buses to Southwest Viewpoint of Tórshavn.

Now let’s leave the city and tell you about 3 easy trips to take simply by using the very accessible public transport around the islands, Strandfaraskip Landsins.

1 Take the fairy to Nolsoy Island. It’s a 20 mins fairy ride to the town and island of Nolsoy. The small town has a specific charm with quite a few streets and also a great pub, a supermarket and a wool shop. People living here seem to have it all. The peace and quiet of such a remote place, but also the comodity of taking the boat and being in less than half an hour in the capital where you can get anything you need.

2. Stay on the main island, Streymoy, but take the free local bus from Tórshavn to Kirkjubøur, a very, very small village but with the ruins of the largest medieval building on the islands, Kirkjubømúrurin.

3. Take a but trip to the 2nd largest city of the Faroe Islands, Klaksvik. It is home to the famous Føroya Bjór, a faroese local beer, and as a personal note, also home to the best cinnamon rolls in the country at Fríða Kaffihús. As my end destination was not just Klaksvik, I took a ferry to Kalsoy Island and then a bus to Mikladalur, a beautiful small town, but with one very famous statue -Kópakonan, or the Seal Woman. Find the fascinating legend around it in the pictures below.

And as my last fun activity that I recomend is taking a tour with an experienced local guide that can show you around by car. This way I got to see more nature and more remote villages like Gjov, Tjørnuvík or Gasadalur with the amazing Múlafossur Waterfall, high cliffs above the ocean and…. the many puffins that you can see close by.

As a conclusion, the Faroe Islands is a place worth going and seeing as much as possible – I for sure know there are still many things that I missed out for now.

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5 amazing things to see in Aarhus

Aarhus is one of those places that you haven’t heard much about and don’t really know what to expect, except the things you google online. Well, luckily it’s a winner because it’s one of those cities you easily fell in love with. Not your daily metropolis, but it has all the good points to spend a few days packed with fun things to see.

Den Gamle By

I’m going to start with my favourite because I just couldn’t wait any longer. The open air museum takes you through the Danish way of living since the 1800s to present times. Just like Skansen in Stockholm, you can visit each and every house and it’s surroundings, but in my opinion it is represented in a more authentic way, being much smaller, but condensed, and with a more village feeling, with paved streets and houses next to each other. It’s a real time travel and you can get surprised at every corner or interior with an extra room or a hidden garden.

BONUS: Møllestien street also has an authentic feel very similar to Gamle By, but with houses that are actually inhabited and part of the city.

ARoS

The best known museum in Aarhus is indisputably ARoS – the main art museum displayed on several levels and with it’s main attraction – I would say – The Rainbow Panorama, a circular walkway on the top of the museum, created by Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson, that offers a 360 view if the entire city through different colours of the rainbow.

BONUS: If you’re into city views from above try the open space terrace on the Salling Department Store.

Aarhus Ø

This is the newest and most modern neighborhood of Aarhus and it is the perfect representation of Denmark, the land of edgy architecture and world famous Scandinavian interior design. A walk in Aarhus Ø is refreshing and gets you to see different architectural styles from the block that has all of it’s facede covered in solar panels, to more famous buildings like the Iceberg complex or the tallest building in Denmark – The Lighthouse.

BONUS: There is also a microbrewery next to Aarhus Ø that deserves trying out. The beer variety is quite large and the ones I tried also tasted great.

The Infinite Bridge

This is something that looks great during summer, because now in April the bridge was dismantled. I still recomend this place because of the peaceful walk that you can take on the beach and also see the small waterfall at Varna Strand. A nice way to spend some time away from the busy city.

The Greenhouse in the Botanical Garden

I must start by mentioning that it is entry free and really worth seeing. The big dome features plants and butterflies from the tropics and is well packed with plants and even has an observation deck for a complete overview of the ‘rainforest’. A very nice way to walk around and see plants and fruits that you don’t usually come across in their natural habitat, not on this continent at least.

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Day trip to Tallinn

When in Helsinki a day trip to Tallinn might be a very good idea. The few hours ferry trip across the Gulf of Finland is the perfect getaway if you want to enjoy something more Medieval then Nordic Helsinki.

Tallinn is the kind of city where I can’t necesarilly recommend certain things because you have to take it as an ensemble and enjoy the Old Town as it is. With narrow stone paved streets that go up and down, it’s just a great place to get lost and wander without any direction just for the joy of discovering something unexpected at any point. Hidden passages between streets and intimate coffee shops add an extra excitement.

Also, you must check out the Kalev chocolate store for the full local chocolate experience and also the delicious pastry served in the next door Maiasmokk Cafe.

Patkuli viewing platform offers a splendid view of the Old Town that has that postcard charm from up above. The way up is a bit of a challenge, but totally worth it, expecially since afterwards you don’t have to go back and can start exploring some more streets on your way down.

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Top 8 things to see in Helsinki

One of my last Nordic adventures for 2022 was Finland with a main focus on the Capital. It was a starting point even for other trips to Turku, Rovaniemi or Tallinn, but I had enough time dedicated only to Helsinki as well. Check out my top 8 list with things you should not miss while there:

8 . Hietaranta Beach

The only place I love beaches are in the Nordics. There is no heat and by chance not even any Sun. Sounds already like a great beach day. On the way to the sandy shores, coming from the city center, also go through the Hietaniemi cemetery for a peaceful walk and to see some squirrels hanging around.

7. Suomenlinna

With just a boat ride away from the City Hall, in 15-20 minutes, you can get away from the busy streets in a completely different universe. Life on the fortified island Suomenlinna seems to move on its own pace. There are quite a few inhabitants living in the old houses and also there is a market, a museum and many cafes and restaurants. It seemed to be the perfect getaway.

The great thing about Suomenlinna is that you can walk around freely in any direction and explore the entire island. Since the weather was a bit windy and cloudy I barely ran into anyone, so it’s also an intimate encounter with nature and history.

6. Tervasaaren koirapuisto

A park on an island surrounded by water. Sounds great, huh? It’s an ideal place to take a walk and enjoy the sun on a bench, see the other islands nearby and the boats passing by. It’s a break from the city right in it!

5. Senate Square

One of the most iconic places in Helsinki is the Senate Square with the Cathedral topping the view on the hill. It looks great from the ground, but even greater after climbing the stairs and having an exquisite view over the square and also the city. It’s as exciting in day time, as by night.

I also had the luck, while being away in Rovaniemi, that the Christmas tree arrived and got decorated and also Aleksanterinkatu got lit up with it’s superb lights – in the same style since 1949.

4. Old Market Hall

It looks great on the outside, but the inside was fascinating. I was expecting and old hall with meat and fish stands, like one would expect in such place, but no. It elevated to the next level and has cafes and many local food like reindeer and bear meat or cloudberry jams and jelly. It was a real surprise!

3. Sibelius Monument

A bit away from downtown Helsinki, in Sibelius Park, you can find this distinctive monument that is dedicated to Jean Sibelius, on of Finland’s greatest composers who is credited for helping the country develop it’s own national identity while under Russian rulling.

The monument dates back from 1967 and it is said that it’s steel pipes capture the wind and make an organ like sound – strangely I did not hear it, but still the monument is worth the walk.

2. Amos Rex & Kamppi Chapel

I mashed up these two atractions due to being neighbours. Amos Rex is a contemporary art museum mostly built underground with Lasipalatsi Square above. It has 5 domes that create a futuristic visual to the place.

Kamppi Chappel is nothing that you would expect a chappel to look like. It is also known as the Chappel of Silance, built in one of the bussiest places in Helsinki, and anyone is welcomed, being meant a place to calm down and have a moment of silance.

Helsinki Central Station

Often cited as one of the world’s most beautiful railway stations, the building was completed in 1919 and is classified as Art Nouveau style with many Art Deco elements. The main entrance is the most impressive with 2 stone statues on each side holding spherical lamps -Lyhdynkantajat (“The Lantern Bearers”) and there is also a large clock tower on the right.

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A train trip to Rovaniemi – the official town of Santa Claus

The idea of a trip to Rovaniemi, the official town of Santa Claus situated right next to the Arctic Circle, came right after I saw a TV show about the most scenic railway journeys in the world and since Helsinki was already on the list, a train ride seemed like the right decision.

Finland’s national railway, VR, offers a wide variety of kinds of places to stay in the train. I decided to buy the best: on the deck with a side window view, basically facing the window to see the best the country has to offer – limitless forests, lakes and if lucky enough, some wildlife – I did not.

Rovaniemi isn’t a town that impresses you necessarily, it was after all burned down 90% after WWII, so the architecture is pretty basic, but it does have it’s own charm. Being the capital of Lapland, it’s booming with tourists and the main attraction isn’t even in town- it’s outside a few km towards the airport – Santa Claus Village.

A place I got mixed feelings about, I love the idea of a place where the Arctic Circle is marked and also tha wooden housed and Christmas decorations. Shortly, the outside is lovely, but the insides not so much. It’s pretty crowded and filled with kitchy souvenir shops. But choose to look at the bright side of it. The village is a bus ride away with local line 8 and the ticked is around 4 euros.

Getting back to Rovaniemi, the Arktikum Museum is worth every penny – a deep look inside the Sami way of life and also the nature of the Arctic. The museum is very interactive and is quite large. It also has a huge park near a lake that must be even nicer during summer. Covered in snow, you don’t get much of it.

A fun thing to do is to find the very few buildings that survived the fire. One of them is the Old Railway Station that is right next to a shopping mall and the Stadium – that on a large scale is the eye of a reindeer. Yes, after WWII architect Alvar Aalto has planned the city’s layout in the shape of a reindeer’s head.

Another great thing to do in Rovaniemi is to have a walk through downtown on Koskikatu up until the Kemijoki River, where you can have a great panorama of the iconic Jätkänkynttilä (Lumberjack’s Candle Bridge).

The days I stayed there the weather was pretty OK, moustly cloudy and with temperatures between -5 and -10 degrees Celsius. Something that is ideal when at the Arctic Circle after all.

Later edit: Forgot to mention: Buy everything CLOUDBERRY related. The Finns have delicios liqueurs, sweets or teas with cloudberry. It is the gold of the Arctic after all.

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The northernmost ghost town on Earth – Pyramiden

When I purchesed the plane tickets in January for Longyearbyen, I thought that this would be the northmost place I’ll go on this trip. But after a bit of research I knew that the Soviet ghost town of Pyramiden needs to be on the list. Reachable only by boat and only in warmer times- meaning that the sea is not frozen over, this is the most remote place I’ve seen so far.

Left exactly in the way it was back in 1998, when the town was abandoned by the Russian coal company that has run the place ever since it was bought from the Swedes, back in 1927, Pyramiden is frozen in time in all the possible ways.

The name was given due to the mountain in the background that is shaped like a pyramid and the town has had all kind of facilities that you wouldn’t expect so high in the Arctic: a kindergarten, a school, a swimming pool, a house of culture, a canteen and, of course, the northernmost statue of Lenin.

The town started to revive in the last few years, with a hotel with a restaurant being open and also a cute cafe at the house of culture. During summer there are plenty of boat trips from Longyearbyen to keep the place busy and the people – residents of the other Russian town on Svalbard, Barentsburg, to have a purpose living so remote.

The pyramid shaped mountain that gave the name to the settlement

I find the idea of keeping this place as it used to be very original and the efforts to make it as welcoming as possible a great initiative for tourism.

The identification sign is made out of old heating pipes

50 km from the archipelago of Svalbard’s capital – Longyearbyen, the boat ride to Pyramiden is a wonderful journey through the fiords. The steep mountains, the untouched nature, the reindeers and the serenity of the whole tableau is just something I haven’t encountered before.

They say it’s more about the journey rather than the destination but it this specific case, both were as rewarding. Bonus was the glacier that is across the fiord from Pyramiden, Nordenskiöld, with the most beautiful blue colour i’ve seen – glacier blue.

As an ending to the post, Svalbard is one of the most unique places on the Planet, so remote and so accesible at the same time and that is why it’s so important to respect it and keep it the way it is, so that the ecosystem remians untouched and human activity is kept to a minimum after all these years of exploiting the land for coal.

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What to do in the Northernmost town -Longyearbyen, Svalbard

Expect the unexpected in Svalbard’s main town – Longyearbyen. A place like nowhere else on Earth, with the harshest Arctic conditions, drinking quotas for the population and a constant polar bear fear – so locals have guns. Ever been to a place like this? I sure haven’t!

So what to expect to do in a town so high in the Arctic and with a population of only 2500-3000 max? Surprinsingly, there are many great places to see and to do. As I am not an adventurous person, I stayed mostly in town so here are my tips on places you MUST check out in Longyearbyen:

Memorial to John Monroe Longyear

The founder of Longyear City has a modest memorial in the old part of the town, that was burned to the ground during WWII by the Nazis, and the only remains are the pillars and the old post office. The memorial reminds us of the man who founded the Arctic Coal Company and who’s name is still very much related to the town – Longyearbyen (the Longyear Town). It’s unmarked on many maps, but find it right before Svalbard Church, at the crossroads coming from the valley towards the sea.

Taubanesentralen (The Aerial Ropeway Junction Building)

This is the place where all cableways came from all directions to one place. The building is situated on the top of a hill, right after Svalbard Church, and is an impressively massive building that, like all infrastructure before 1950, is protected by the Svalbard Environmental Protection Act. On the way up there you get a splendid view of the town and also of the only part of the cableway that still has ropes.

On your way back be sure to include the Svalbard Church – the world’s northernmost church, Longyearbyen sundial and the War Memorial, Longyearbyen Svalbard.

Parts of the old infrastructure are all over town

The Old Post Office building is the only one that survided the fire from Old Longyear City

Longyearbyen cemetery

On the same part of town, but a bit further down the valley, towards Huset, there is the town’s old cemetery. I must mention that no one is buried in Svalbard for some time now, since the 50s, due to the permafrost and the possibility of the bodies to resurface. But before that, between 1918 and 1950, some people were buried here, including 7 people that died from the Spanish flu. Due to this the cemetary is small and mysteriously layed at the mountain base. There are future plans to start a new burial place near the church, but only with urn graves.

Svalbard Museum

If you got a bit cold from the outdoor sightseeings, go and warm up at the Svalbard Museum. It shares the same building as the University and the Norwegian Polar Institute. It’s one of the largest buildings in town so it’s hard to miss it.

The museum offers insight of life in Svalbard, from the various birds, Arctic foxes, polar bears or reinders to the way of living and working of the miners back in the days. It really helps you understand the history and way of life here, just 1316 km away from the North Pole. The ticket is around 100 NOK and I find it pretty reasonable as an entrance fee. The museum is quite large and also has a complex souvenir shop with many books so it’s a very nice way to spend time indoors.

Stuffed polar bears can be seen in many places around town

Just behind UNIS, there is another, smaller, museum that is dedicated to the North Pole Exoeditions, so you might want to check that one out too, before maybe heading to a delicious coffee,cinnamon bun or maybe a chocolate polar bear at the locally famous Fruene cafe.

“The Longyearbyen Palette”

It reffers to the colourful houses that can be seen all around town and have been made this way to make the place look more joyful and to contrast the barren landscape. Being at latitude 78 there isn’t much nature around, no trees, bushes or anything like that. Only some Arctic tundra and moss on the ground. The colourful houses can be spotted easily in a few places in town and from the right angle, they offer a spectacular photo view.

Svalbard Global Seed Vault

For starters, it is out of town, so you need to either take a tour or be accompanied by someone with a riffle for polar bear protection. And this is a serious thing up here! The Svalbard Global Seed Vault is quite famous and it was designed to be a backup seed bank for the entire Planet in case of diverse disasters happen in the home country. The seed vault is built inside the mountain and unfortunatelly cannot be visited on the inside.

The outside on the other hand offers a great view over the airport and the entrance that includes the artwork Perpetual Repercussion by Norwegian artist Dyveke Sanne that is made to reflect the light during daytime and by night it iluminates a blue-green colour that can be spotted from a long distance (it was quite visible from the boat on my trip to Pyramiden).

The Polar Bear Warning sign

One of the most iconic signs in Svalbard, The Polar Bear Warning sign is designed to warn inhabitants when they are leaving the settlement perimeter – that is considered safe. Although you are never 100% safe because polar bears can also enter the settlements at any time.

There are 4 signs that I know of, situated on the roads that lead outside town: one when exiting Nybyen, one near Huset, one towards Adventdalen, and one towards the airport + plus the one that is right in front of the airport building. The text : “Gjelder hele Svalbard” means Applies to whole Svalbard. Pictures taken here are a must!

Take a walk in the town centre

You fill find literally everything you need here! The Svalbard main grocery store, restaurants and bars, souvenir and clothing shops and activity planning agencies. Also, the hospital, post office and Longyearbyen Miners Memorial Statue are on the same pedestrian street.

View the Northern Lights

It can rarelly be more up North than here so the Aurora Borealis must be on anyone’s list when visiting outside the Midnight Sun season. I was lucky, and as my usual custom so it seems, spotted the Northern Lights on my last day here. It was a pretty short appereance, but it was good to see them, as every time. Not even the -6 C, with a real feel of -13 C, didn’t stop me from running around town trying to catch the best pic.

Afterword

The thing I enjoyed most was the remoteness and the distance from home that really kept me being very present there, in Svalbard, having all thoughts, work issues and whatever being left behind on the mainland. The natural beauty of this place, the cold weather and how people made Longyearbyen such a livable place is something that inspires me and made this trip one of the most memorable ones so far. Really hope to be able to come back some day!

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Iceland – The Northern Lights

The last time I saw the aurora borealis was back in April in Tromsø when the season was near it’s end. This time it was the very start of the aurora season, at the beginning of September.

Back in Reykjavik the Northern Lights were easy to spot

The Northern Lights actually happen all year round, but because of the midnight sun and the long hours of daylight, it is impossible the see it. Once the nights get darker and longer the chances of seeing it increases.

This natural phenomenon is very unpredictable because you count on so many factors like the weather and Sun storms.

I could not leave Iceland without seeing the Northern Lights from this great place, so the tour I booked took me out to Kleifarvatn Lake in the middle of nowhere and in a total darkness – the best one can do for a clear sighting, to get away from the city and any light pollution.

Mother nature was more then generous this night because the sky was abundant with auroras in so many directions you barely knew where to look, enjoy and of course try to capture it in a picture so that you can treasure it onwards.

Words can rarely describe it so I can only hope the images can.

What I want to add is that the night was so active that I could also see them clearly back in Reykjavik.

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Along the Snaefellsnes Peninsula in Iceland

My second tour in Iceland was on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula and was a bit longer drive than on the South Coast, but still very pleasing, with numerous attractions along the road.

Kirkjufellsfoss

The first stop was this beautiful waterfall that has close by Kirkjufell – or Church Mountain, and is considered to be one of the most photographed mountains on the island due to it’s interesting formation. The very green landscape accompanied by the water and all the mountains around offered a peaceful and calm view.

On the round I saw numerous lava fields that are not very uncommon here in Iceland. The way they are structured look pretty much like something that is not from this planet and add a dramatic composition for each picture.

Saxhóll Crater

Moving forward the next stop was Saxhóll Crater, an actual vulcano that is made very comfortable for one visiting it – they added a staircase to it so going up is not such a tought job. The view from atop is very rewarding because you get to see the lava fields from around and also the ocean a bit further. The weather was a bit windy and cold that day so being up there was not very welcoming and made the stay short.

Djúpalónssandur beach

A trip in Iceland just doesn’t feel right without at least one trip to a black beach. On Snaefellsnes Peninsula the most renowned is Djúpalónssandur beach. Accompanied by dramatic cliffs and waves from the Atlantic Ocean, this black sand beach has something of it’s own – mankind made – the remains of Epine GY fishing trawler scattered everywhere. The ship wrecked nearby due to bad weather on 13th of March 1948 and only 5 of 19 of the crew members were rescued back then.

Arnarstapi Coast

If the cliffs on the beach might not have been dramatic enought, the coast near the Arnarstapi fishing village has done the trick. With a few km trail along some breathtaking views over the ocean and a great sunny weather were enough to get you hungry and check out the -rare- few places you could get a bite.

The Black Church at Búðir

The highpoint of the trip was most probably Búðakirkja because of the many pictures I’ve seen of it before throughout social media. The church was erected in 1703 by Bent Lárusson and it got it’s colour because of the salty air from around where no other colour would stick better than the classical black. It also has an old graveyard near it and with the right light and angle some great pictures might come across helped by the ravishing landscape.

Ytri Tunga beach

Last but not least on the list is a golden sand beach this time that is also populated usually by seals. I did not manage so see any close by, but got to see a few a bit further away (unfortunatelly too far for my phone to be able to catch them). The tide was pretty low at the moment so many rocks and seaweed was left bare to the eye.

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7 best things to do in Reykjavik

Reykjavik is filled with things to do if you want to stay in the city. From shopping, to museums and parks you can hardly get bored in this city. And I know it best because I’ve spend a week here and got to see how it feels living in this vibrant Nordic capital. With that being said here is a selection of 7 things to do:

Hallgrímskirkja

One the most iconic and world famous buildings in Iceland is for sure the Church of Hallgrimur. Though I’m not a fan of churches, there are a few exceptions that I’m simply taken with. The simetry and minimalism make out of this church a unique attraction in the city and captures the landscape of Iceland, particularily having a send off to the basalt columns that are found throughout the country.

It is also architecturally closely linked to Gruntvig’s Church from Copanhagen, completed in 1940, while Hallgrímskirkja was founded in 1945 and was finally finished in 1986.

I recommend also going inside and taking the elevator up to the tower for an outstanding view of Reykjavik. Just be aware that the church bells are rang at every 15 minutes and it can get quite loud up there.

The view from ground level of Hallgrímskirkja is completed with the statue, which was a gift from the USA, of Leif Erikson, a Norse explorer who is said to actually be the first European to set foot on the North American continent way before Colombus.

City view from Perlan

If you’re as crazy as me with seeing a city from above, don’t miss out on visiting the Perlan Museum and the view from it. Situated on a hill top it offers a wide view of the city and it’s surroundings. The forested park around it is also great for a walk after your visit and is filled with WWII (safe) remains.

Take a walk from the Marina to Höfði House

I had to squeeze so many atractions into one topic because it just makes it a great walking trail. Start in the Reykjavik Marina, where you will also find one of the few locomotives that operated on the island and was used in the Marina to transport cargo of all sorts. Stay on the seashore and find yourself shortly in front of a modern architecture award wining bulding that is the Harpa – a concert hall and conference centre.

Don’t shy away because you can actually visit it on the inside and get blown way by its interior. You can also get a nice shot of the port from inside.

Continue your walk to another famous landmark – The Sun Voyager, a modern sculpture that symbolises an ode to the Sun. Like any other piece of art it can have many other interpretations depending of your personal background.

There is no stopping now because a bit further you can see a yellow lighthouse just great for some shots and right across the road lies Höfði House, well know for it’s historic meeting between the US President, Ronald Reagan, and leader of the Soviet Union, Mikhail Gorbachev.

What’s also unique about this house is that it was made in Norway and shipped to Iceland where it was put together and was one of the biggest estates at that time – in 1909. Local stories tell that the house may have one or more ghosts.

Near the house you can also see a piece of the Berlin Wall – gifted from the Germans in 2005 for for the important meeting that was held at Höfði House that eventually helped Germany reunite.

Hólavallagarður cemetery, City Hall and Hljómskála Park

All in the same area, and all worth visiting. Hljómskála is a large park along with Tjörnin lake and is a great place for a walk and to get away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Reykjavik. At the Northern end of the park you will find the City Hall, unlike many others in Europe, this one has on open doors policy and you can just walk through it, admire the a miniature of the entire island, get wormed up or use the restrooms. This is a real PUBLIC institution that feels like it belongs to everyone.

On the western side of the Park, just two streets further, find the Hólavallagarður cemetery, opened in 1838 that replaced the old one used since Viking times. The resting place for so many has a dense vegetation with a real forest look.

The first person buried in the cemetery is Guðrún Oddsdóttir and is considered to be the guardian of it. Due to local legends the person who is first buried in a new cemetary would have to watch over the ones arriving later and it’s body would not decompose.

The graveyard is filled with old tombstones so take a nice walk before heading close by to the even older cemetery that is now a public square and only has a few tombstones left – Fógetagarður.

Reykjavik City Botanic Garden

A bit further away from downtown, but on the bright side you get so see how average people live in the city along the way. The Botanical Garden is not so large but you can see a wide diversity of vegetation from the northern temperate zone. Not to mention that entry is free of charge.

Enjoy Icelandic food

Being a vegetarian and not liking seafood limits some of the famous Icelandic dishes, but there are a few things I enjoyed insanely. The world famous Skyr made my day everyday, with it’s unique consistency and many flavours, also it’s an affordable delicacy that you can find in any supermarket.

The Icelandic hot dog is well known and my choice was the vegetarian one, with a great combo of cabbage, beet, plant based meet and some amazing sauces.

Möndlukaka is an Icelandic version of Almond cake that I was instantly in love with – I do tend to do this, don’t I?

Take a tour

Reykjavik is the starting place of many great tours around Iceland. Book anything you like and get to see this amazing country and it’s beautiful natural resources. Go west, go south, or any direction, see the Northern Lights!

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Down the South Coast of Iceland

Iceland trully is a country that must be seen from every inch to inch as much as possible and let’s face it, as much as each one’s budget can extend. Booking a tour from Reykjavik might be a good choice when you don’t have a drivers license and you get to see on point the best things around.

My South Coast visit included two of the things that I really, really wanted to see here: the black sand beach and the town of Vik. But because it’s Iceland, it’s not always just the destination as the entire journey so it needs to be taken as an anssamble. Once you get out of Reykjavik you start seeing fields of volcanic rocks and steam rising from the ground, breathtaking green grass and skyhigh waterfalls.

My first stop was at the Sólheimajökull glacier just to get the idea of it, I’m not much of an adventurer when it comes to nature anyway. The ice blocks in the water gave me a very Greenlandic view along with the peaceful glacier.

The black sand beach of Reynisfjara is something to talk about. Once you get closer to the Atlantic Ocean the sand gets finer and the cliffs far away in the water make it an excelent place for some photo shots. The monolits in the mountain are also someting not to miss and also be aware of the many birds up the mountain – one of them is the iconic puffin. This walk on the beach was very relaxing and put me in a really great state of mind.

The small town of Vik doesn’t seem as small as they say but looks quite idyllic and has same great views to offer from the hill top where the small church lies, and what is also an emergency gathering place in case the vulcano Katla from behind erupts and the waters from the glacier come flooding the hole town except this one place. Another great place in Vik is the black sand beach accompanied bythe dramatic cliffs in the ocean.

I also got to see close by not one, but two famous waterfalls – Skógafoss, one of the largest in the country and Seljalandsfoss that also has a few other small waterfalls nearby and a cute trail at their base.

There is no Iceland without talking about elves and vikings, so along the road we stopped at a Drangurinn, a special rock formation that stands alone and has at it’s base a viking house. The story of the rock is linked to elves and a man who fell in love with an elf woman and then dissapeared into their world and also with a strong outlaw that ripped a big piece out of the mountain and threw it nearby – the current rock formation.

The monolits at the black sand beach of Reynisfjara

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My week in Vienna

When you say Vienna I think it’s best to do all the things expected because it simply cannot go wrong. The desserts are great, the buildings are amazing and it for sure lives up to one’s expectations. For me, it was not my first time, but a decent period of almost 20 years have passed by and I was eager to rediscover the city -almost – for the first time.

My stay was a week long and I combined the necesity of working and also having a great time in the Austrian capital. So, here are a few things and places you shouldn’t miss out if you ever get to be in Vienna.

Belvedere Palace

The Baroque palace is a museum these days with quite an impressive interior and also surrounded with extensive gardens, both front and back. The main entrance gates lead you to a lake and the palace – known as Upper Belvedere in the background, while in the other side we find the Lower Belvedere along with the French style gardens and water basins. Just a great place for a walk after visiting the museum!

Innere Stadt

There are so many things the Old City center is famous for so I just recommend taking it step by step to enjoy it as an ensemble. But be sure not to miss the very famous St. Stephen’s Cathedral and it’s richly coloured tiled roof, the Ferstel Passage, very intimate and well hidden, the Column of Pest, the Town Hall, the Anker Clock with it’s moving figures, the Operahouse, the Museums Quartier that literally feels like a carefree universe once you enter it’s perimeter, and many, many more.

Donau Insel

For a very different take of Vienna, in contrast with what you can see in the Old City, is the long island on the Danube that hosts many bars and pubs and has a pedestrian bridge that connects with DonauCity, a modern skyscrapper area with offices and all that, and also Donaupark. It’s a great place for a walk, some pictures with the Danube and the futuristic skyline, but also for being able to see a different side of the city.

Schönbrunn Palace

Along with St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Schönbrunn is probably one of Vienna’s best know places. It’s a bit far away from the city center so you must take some means of public transportation. It’s not impossible to walk there, but considering the size of the palace’s grounds, you’ll probably want to save up the energy for that. There are not only the gardens you can walk around, you can also hike a bit up the hill to Gloriette Palace for a spectacular view not only of Schönbrunn, but most of the Austrian Capital. The way down might be a bit easier.

I could not end this post without mentioning the delicios desserts you can find here, most notably the famous Apfelstrudel and Sacher Torte along with what they call Melange cafe – but is better known in the world as cafe vienois.

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5 places to check out when in Berlin

Don’t be quick to judge because I know I haven’t seen all there is to Berlin, in the few days I was there, but I will synthetize the experience I’ve had and the places I enjoyed most. Many people when talking about Berlin are all about the wild parties and freedom you encounter, but instead I kept my trip as touristy as possible. Getting to the main subject, here are 5 places you must not miss if in the German capital.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

Simply because we must not forget!

Apart from the powerful symbolism that this place holds, the 2711 slabs of varying heights create an unique visual in order for us to understand the immensity of the horrors done in the past.

If here, one of Berlin’s best known places – The Brandenburg Gate is just a few steps away.

2. East Side Gallery

Like any big capital of the word, Berlin has a complex and complicated history over years. Remained from not so long ago, the largest segment of the Berlin Wall is at East Side Gallery, and as the name suggests, it is an open air gallery with recent, but also iconic, murals that are refurbished from time to time. It is next to Spree River, so after seeing the art and wall – that devided the city for almost 30 years, take 5 in the park next to it and imagine how this place must have been back in the 80’s.

3. Tempelhofer Feld

Get away from the city and experience something that you rarely can. Take a walk on an airport strip. Well, an airport that has ceased operations in 2008 and became a park. The feeling is very interesting and it’s so amazing that they kept the terminal and everything and did not sell the place for real estate purposes, but instead gave the local community a place to hang out, do sports, have a picnic and why not, a barbecue.

4. Schlossgarten Charlottenburg

The baroque Charlottenburg Castle is surrounded by a large garden that gets wilder as you sink deeper into the woods in the back. A great place for some fresh air and also a hiding place from the sun during the summer. It also has a lake, lots of flowers and birds, a mausoleum and….goats. Quite an eclectic place!

5. Museuminsel

Getting back into the city it’s time to visit a UNESCO World Heritage Site – Museum Island! It is home to 6 great museums, Humboldt Forum and also the Berliner Dom. Enjoy a view of the river and the iconic Berlin Television Tower.

Also a few other places you should check out are the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church – a memorial against war and distruction, Checkpoint Charlie – the best known boarder crossing from East to West Berlin and also the Rotes Rathaus – so similar to other Nordic townhalls: Oslo, Stockholm or Copenhagen. I think I might even do a post on this.

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To do: One day in Malta

Though my trip lasted for a few days I will sum it up and recommend a full day of activities with some of the best that the small country of Malta has to offer. The weather in May is almost beareable in terms of heat for a person like myself who would enjoy the summer months probably way above the Arctic Circle, but I managed to make it enjoyable.

Get prepared for a cultural clash here in Malta because of the closeness to Africa and also due to the long period of being a British colony it’s a mix that you rarely find in Europe.

Start your day in Valletta, the smallest capital city in Europe, situated on an peninsula and well protected through it’s fort walls. It’s a lovely place to walk around the streets and shops and take advantage of it’s many gardens, especially the most famous ones: Upper Barrakka and Lower Barrakka Gardens. Dating back to 1661, both gardens offer a splendid view of the Grand Harbour and are a perfect place to rest in the shade and admire the fountains, flowers and the surrounding architecture.

If you’ve done wandering on the streets of Valletta the best things is to take a bus (the island is very well connected through it’s bus system) and head over to the old capital of the island – Mdina. The fortified city has old medieval peaceful streets that you can walk along on and can also find spectacular views of the island from the city walls. Really gives you some perspective.

Narrow streets in the medieval city of Mdina

If you are still energized enough the day is still not over – take a 40 minute boat trip from Valletta to the close by Gozo Island to get some more sense of the Maltese way of life. From the port of Mgarr I took a bus to the largest city here – Victoria or Rabat as the old town is known. The Cittadella is one of those places you want to get lost because eventually you find your way out and in the meantime you see all kinds of views of the island and get to go through narrow streets and up and down staircases. After all this excitement you just want to find your hotel room and get some rest but realise that you have to get to the main island and also to where you’re staying.

Malta is great but if you like doing many things on your trip like I do 2-3 days are just enough. If you’re the kind that likes to sunbathe and chill probably you can extend the trip to even more days.

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What to do in Göteborg?

So on what seemed to be a rainy day in Copenhagen, I decided the best way to spend the day is to escape to Sweden again in one of the second largest cities in the country, Göteborg. In a nearly 4 hour train ride you can get there and see what this famous city is all about.

Feskekôrka

Translated from Swedish it means fish church. It’s a fish market that due to it’s architectural resemblance to a Neo-Gothic church got this name. Unfortunatelly, but luckily for me personally, the building is under restauration so the fish market is closed and also it’s surrounded by a fence. Needless of me to say that I am not a fan of anything coming out of the water and into someones plate. Fish and other sea creatures are best where they belong… underwater! Putting this aside, the building is something you should definitelly see if Göteborg is on you travel list.

Haga District

One of the most famous and oldest districts and also a street in Göteborg is Haga. A very hip place filled with cafes and shops in old wooden houses and with the Skansen Kronan (the Crown Sconce) Castle on the top of the nearby Risåsberget hill. A great place for a walk and maybe a coffee. Also, here is the place I saw one of the most gigantic kanelbulle in my life that now i regret not taking a photo of it.

Trädgårdsföreningen

The Garden Society of Göteborg is a horticultural park that hosts greenhouses, restaurants and shops and is also great for an escape from all the city buzz. It is one of Europe’s best preserved 19th century parks and hosts an impressive collections of roses – well not in April, but still. The director’s villa really impressed me by it’s typical Scandinavian wooden architecture and the flowers in bloom that grow on the side of the house make it even more appealing. I just wish it was mine…

Princess Cake

Being a post about Sweden I cannot ignore one of it’s best desserts: Princesstårta. So I tried it a two places – Ahlstrom Confectionery, where I felt a local twist of the cake but still it was very delicios, and Brogyllen Hamngatan where is was available in several colours, but I’m more of a classic when it comes to certain things and the Princess Cake is one of those things – so I went with the usual green.

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What to do in Malmö?

It’s a must for anyone visiting Copenhagen to take a day trip to the neighbouring city of Malmö in Sweden. Not only that you get to visit 2 countries at the same time, but also experience the greatness of the third largest city of Sweden. You can get there in less than 40 minutes from the Copenhagen Central Station by taking the train across the Öresund Bridge.

And now to answer the question from the posts title: What do you do in Malmö?

Slottsträdgården

Take a nice walk in one of the largest parks in the city. It is located right next to the not-so-impressive Malmö Castle and has about 12.000 square meters and an impressive Dutch windmill – Slottsmöllan. The castle mill dates back to 1850s and is one of the main atractions of the garden.

Slottsträdgården has a lake, a fountain, many birds and even more vegetation making it a must see in Malmö. Also if you are coming from the city centre, pass throught the Malmö old cemetery. It is more like a park then a graveyard and lacks the morbidity of what one would expect from such place.

Ridesborg Beach

A great mixture of green and sandy beach, this place is great for a lot of things. First for being able to see the sea, but also for a great sight of the Öresund Bridge, bits of Copenhagen – if the weather is great and sunny and one of Malmö’s best know buildings – The Turning Torso. It stands out through it’s neo-futurist architecture and it’s height of 190 m, making it the tallest building in Scandinavia.

The beach is ideal for a long walk and in the meantime also to get tanned apparently – I sure did even id it was late April and wasn’t exactly on my list. The blue sky, the green grass and some modern architecture in the background is sometimes all one needs.

Lilla Torg

The historical market square is probably on every to do list on many websites and I kind of get why. It dates back to 1590 and has many shops, restaurants and colourful buildings. Its the of the heart of the city and you can feel it due to the many crowds and bustle all around. Close by is another square that hosts the Malmö Rådhus – The Town Hall, unfortunatelly under restauration at the time of my visit. For some shopping Södergatan and the adjacent streets might just satisfy that need.

Princesstårta

Something that I will keep on saying everytime I get the oportunity to be in Sweden. Find the best bakery in town that makes the iconic Swedish dessert – the Princess Cake. If in Stockholm Vette Katten is for sure my number one option, for Malmö I would dare say that Konditori Hollandia stands out. So for you fika you must try it – best served with a delicious latte.

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Top 5 places to see in Copenhagen

What I mostly knew about Denmark was all related to Scandinavian interior design because it’s part of my job, Danish cookies in metalic boxes and The Little Mermaid, but once my trip was getting closer I started researching and got more background of the city. Moneywise, it’s less expensive than Norway and I think almost the same as Sweden, just to get an idea compared to other Nordic countries.

So I made a top 5 of what anyone visiting Copanhagen must see, two if them are ultra famous, but yes need to be seen because otherwise it would be like going to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower or the Arc de Triomphe at least once.

Nyhavn

What was once a New Port is now one of the cities main atractions and the reason is easy to understand. The 17th century coulourful houses and the canal with old ships that lie in front of them gives you an idea of what the town might have looked like a few centuries ago. Nowadays the townhouses host many restaurants and cafes and the sidewalk is super crowded. For a better perspective go on the other side of the canal and get the chance to see a broader view and catch a few good shots. The Nyhavn Bridge also offers a a great perspective.

2. Grundtvigs Kirke and Bispebjerg Kirkegård

Or said in English the Grundtvigs church and the Bispebjerg graveyard are both somehow connected and in the same ensemble. Grundtvigs Kirke is an example of expressionist church and really stand out through it’s architecture. My first thought was that is resembles the Hallgrímskirkja from Reykjavik, Iceland. I myself am not a fan of classical church designs but there are a few that make quite an impression.

Grundtvigs Kirke seen from Bispebjerg Kirkegård

Continuing the tradition of graveyards started in Stockholm, right across the street from the church lies the Bispebjerg cemetery that can also be considered a park, appropriate for a nice, calm walk. The main avenue with poplar trees offers a splendid view of Grundtvigs church. Don’t be shy and explore the site avenues of the cemetery. You may come across beautiful trees in bloom if visiting in Spring.

3. Den Lille Havfrue / The Little Mermaid

Apart from Nyhavn, the Little Mermaid Statue is one of Copanhagen’s greatest attractions. After visiting Nyhavn you can easily take a walk on the seashore, right across the water from Operaen or The Copanhagen Opera House, that has an architecture that almost makes me think of the Operahuset from Oslo, but with it’s own particularities, and pass the Kastellet, one of Northern Europe’s best preserved fortresses.

The Little Mermaid and it’s industrial background

The statue is not as big as you might thing and you need to find the right angle for a picture because of the unatractive industrial background. But once that’s done, the beauty of the statue can be immortalized. Also, expect a big crowd and a queue if you want to take a picture of yourself and The Little Mermaid.

4. Ishøj Strand and ARKEN Museum

Time to get out of the city by train to one of the iconic Nordic beaches and the ARKEN Museum of Modern Art. Both are a short walk from the train station and you’re able to admire the suburban Danish lifestyle. I am not a beach fan, but in late April the weather is just good enough for a short walk or to enjoy a latte behind the sand dunes. Also the museum hosts some interesting displays within it and also on the surrounding grounds.

5. Superkilen Park

Situated in the ethically diverse borough of Nørrebro in Copanhagen, the park was designed by refugees and locals together and resulted a project that has won many design awards and instantly became a great place for taking many pictures. The place is not that much impressive in real life but on the camera lens the effect of the stripes turnes it into something great.

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My Tromsø adventure – The Northern Lights

I may have ended things a bit too early on my last post since I had one more night in Tromsø and really ended it with a big bang.

After deciding to take one last walk in the city to, well, just say a proper goodbye and ended up at Skansen where all of a sudden the sky hit green and this massive aurora borealis over my had started showing and dancing all around. I was hyperventilating and did’t even know if I should just enjoy it or quickly take a few shots of it. I managed to do both and ended up taked some pretty awesome pics, but also have a very visual memory of it.

The Northern Lights didn’t last that long before they started getting more faded and eventually dissapeared, so it was just a matter of being at the right place at the right moment. It really put a bright note on everything and I wanted more but this is not how it works. It can get addictive and I am fully prepared to take it on and making it an official goal to see as many auroras as possible in the future.

This time it is my last post about Tromsø from this trip but will be back later this month with other interesting places.

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My Tromsø adventure – Day 6

One of the best places to really see the city is from high above, so I took the cable car Fjellheisen up to Storsteinen – 420 m above sea level. The view is just breathtaking and the whole Tromsø is at your feet. I walked around and even went a bit higher since this is a popular starting place for many hikes on the surrouding mountains.

I saved one of the best activities for the last day mainly because of the great weather conditions – just sun and blue skies all around. I could even dare say that it was a bit warm, but I know many of you wouldn’t agree with me on this one.

After walking and hanging around on the top of the mountain, since it was such a nice day, I decided to try the Sydspissen trail that eventually ends up at Telegrafbukta, that I showed you a few days earlier. It’s a nice walk on the sea shore with a few easy rocky climbs and astonishing views of the sea and snowy mountains that sorround the island.

This marks one of the last activities I did in Tromsø, but not my last adventure beyond the Arctic Circle.

P.S. If ever end up here, try the gold of the Arctic – the cloudberry. You can find them fresh at the market during July and August and in the rest the year in different other forms – frozen from the local supermarkets, as a gem or as tea. The flavour of the berries is something unique and they grow only in the Arctic tundra.

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My Tromsø adventure – Day 5

Day 5 is about connectig with the Arctic nature so I picked two spots where you can do it without ever having to leave the city. I am an urban guy so I only like nature for a limited time 🙂

A great place to see the sea and actually be on a sandy beach is Telegrafbukta or also know as Tromsø Southern Beach. I’ve never seen snow and sand together so this was a first one for me and I’d also like to note that I am not a summer person and that’s pretty obvious since I’ve generically called 2022 my Nordic year.

The beach is a great place to hang around, there are also a few places to sit down and enjoy, maybe, the very few rays of sun that might shine. You also get a very clear view of the snowy mountains from around, since Telegrafbukta is right on the peak of the Tromsøya island, and also can see the planes that arive to Tromsø airport. In the summer people come here for the beach and a swim or a barbecue. There is also a 4-5 km trail on the seashore starting at Telegrafbukta.

Getting away from the beach, you can find Prestvannet in the heart of the island. It is a lake surrounded by a park and offers a perfectly wintry landscape. My walk was cut short due to the blizzard but managed to get the feel of the area at least.

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My Tromsø adventure – Day 4

My fourth day in Tromsø has a prime focus on what happened after sunset. I will start by telling you about my walk in the bay that ended up in me taking a spontanious decision of going to see the Arctic Cathedral by night. All good, except the fact that there is an over 1 kilometer bridge to cross and a crazy blizzard that just started. I have an insane fear of heights and water so my anxiety was over the roof, but eventually managed to get over it.

Once on the other side – and on dry land – the Arctic Cathedral or officially The Cathedral of The Arctic Sea was an outstanding view. The bridge and the Cathedral are one of Tromsø’s most iconic sights, being heavily marketed everywhere, and for all the right reasons I would say. Completed in 1965, the concrete Ishavskatedralen stands out through it’s unique architecture inspired by the Arctic nature.

One of the clearest and strogest Northern Lights

Another thing I want to talk about is well… one of the main reasons I picked Tromsø for this trip – the Northern Lights. Since the weather in town is almost impossible and 95% of the my time here it has been snowing, I took one of the many tours available in town. What does this mean? Well the organiser rounds up around 10-15 people in a bus and takes you outside the city.

In my case we drove over 100 km and almoast reached the Finnish boarder, but the driver learned that the Lights were nowhere to be seen because of the dense clouds, so we turned around and found a spot on the roadside. After a few minutes spent outside at around -7 degrees Celsius in the dark some Aurora flickers started showing, but were very hard to see with the naked eye. The camera on my phone the other hand caught much better and colourful captions.

After around 10 minutes and some shy Northern Lights we went back on the bus and started searching a better spot. Unfortunatelly, the polarisation was still on + instead of – and the probability of seing it again was almost 0. We stayed on a sideroad for a while, lit a fire and drank a hot tea and got some chocolate cakes.

The fire was helpful in warming up a bit

It was a nice experience but because of the high expectations and let’s be honest, also the hight price – a tour like this gets around 250 euros, I was a bit dissapointed. The predictions for the next days are not optimistic, so probably will have to settle for this for now. Luckily I have planned another Arctic expedition later this year, in October.

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My Tromsø adventure – Days 2&3

My second and third day in Tromsø continued to be an adventure as I really wanted to try the Norwegian national cake – Kvaefjordkake or Verdens Beste – what some call out as the best cake in the world. This delicious treat has meringue, whipped cream and almonds. The downside of it is that you don’t find it in any bakery or cake shop and it’s more common up hear in the North as it’s name is tied to the Kvaefjord town not that far away.

So, here I managed to find it at Tromsø Bakeri and it’s exactly what I expected: a royal treatment of a dessert. The Nordics have some amazing pastries and cakes that are soooo good. I fell in love with the Prinsesstårta on my New Years trip to Stockholm and now this.

Other things that I did these days was see the Polar Museum up close and also Skansen – the oldest building in Tromsø and continued to walk on the snowy streets in town. It’s so great to just wander around while it’s snowing and feel the vibe of the city.

The Arctic–Alpine Botanic Garden is free of charge and most likely very beautiful during the summer. Even though April is just a few days by, it’s full winter up here beyond the Artic Circle so I did not get to see much because of the generous layer of snow.

The weather in Tromsø is very capricious – one moment you get a few rays of sunshine and all of a sudden there’s a massive cloud coming and it instantly starts snowing heavily and the vicious cycle goes on. It’s a bit hard to plan along some activities because of the changing weather but I’m feeling optimistic and sure that the following days will come with some surprises.

Always finding time for a coffee and a kanelbulle

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My Tromsø adventure – Day 1

I got to Tromsø on my first day after a pretty long trip with 2 stops in Warsaw and Oslo and got to my final destination somewhere in the afternoon. The first thing was finding my hotel but luckily through the Tromsø Billet app you can get a ticket around 38 kr, that means almost 4 euros, so I found it very accessible, the 40 line taking you directly to the city center, where most hotels are located.

After settling in at the hotel and doing some food shopping, I went on a short expedition around town to see whats what. I’ve started with the main shopping street Grønnegata and continued on the pier between Polarmuseet – an old red-brown wooden building built above water and the contrasting Polaria – a distinctive building by its architecture that represents the flowing Arctic ice pressed up on land by the sea. Something similar can be found across the bridge – the Arctic Cathedral that I will show you in the following days.

You cannot help but notice that Tromsø is indeed the town with the most historical wooden houses in Norway, with many bright colours such as beige, yellow, blue, brown or red in contrast with the Arctic weather all year round – filled with cloudy skies, lots of snow and lets not forget the Polar night that lasts here from the end of November till mid January that means complete dark day and night.

I finished my first day in Tromsø with a very, vert shy glipse of the aurora borealis seen over the mountains, but unfortunatelly did not manage to catch it on a photo. I will continue my hunt for one of the main things the Paris of the North is most known for, but hopefully there will be clear skies and proper UV index.

Statue of Helmer Hanssen – on of the 5 explorers to first reach the South Pole

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To do: One day in Dublin

So I had an extended weekend in Dublin and had 2 full days of enjoying it, but I’m going to compact it and see what you can do in the city in a one day speed visit, making the most of it and ending the day in an even more fun manner.

Start the day with a strong, but also long, coffee so that you have enough energy for the day. Get some comfy shoes and dress up in layers, because the Irish weather can be tricky. The first place you should pop in is Trinity Collage Dublin with it’s large courtyard and old buildings. Passing through the main entrance, next to the Irish Houses of Parliament, you basically enter an entire small city built for students and can wander around the entire campus.

Once done, the next famous atraction of the city is the Dublin Castle, that you can go to via St Stephen’s Green, an old public park with a lake, lots of birds and a soothing atmosphere. If you are lucky, a few rays of sun migh shine your way and warm you up a bit. Moving on, check out the Dublin Castle, that incorporates the Record Tower, the only surviving tower from the medieval castle dating back to 1228. Take 5 in the Dubh Linn Garden right across the street and enjoy bits of nature – of spring in my case.

Time to head towards a railway station because the next stop is on the seaside. Also make sure to also check out the Spire of Dublin, or Monument of Light, a quite controversial monument that stands out through it’s minimalism and height. Some dare to compare it to the Eiffel Tower due to it’s urban oustanding structure. It has a height of 120 m so it’s hard not to miss it.

Howth is the place to be if you want to enjoy a pictoresque marine scenery. Is has it all: cliffs, fish&chips, lots of seagulls and even two lighthouses. Even if it’s less then a half hour trip from the city, Howth is a completelly peaceful place, though it’s loaded with tourists, but at least you get that great connection with the Irish Sea and have the opportunity to clear your head a bit.

Head back to the city and gather your strenght because the Irish are best know for drinking. Whiskey and beer are everywhere so you might as well try them out in one of the many, many pubs. Have no fear as the night comes because even at 2 AM downtown Dublin is full of people and even more vibrant than during daytime.

Other atractions to see are Ha’penny Bridge, Molly Malone Statue and St Patrick’s Cathedral. What I really also wanted to see, and did not get the chance, were Phoenix Park and Glasnevin Cemetery. But who knows, maybe it wasn’t my last time in Dublin.

Will be back in April with a new post from the far North, above the Arctic Circle!

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Top 5 places to see in Oslo

This year’s focus for me is to visit all the Nordic countries at least a bit. I love the Scandinavian culture and way of living and feel like I have a special bond with it, so what better thing to do is than start with the capitals. After entering 2022 in Stockholm, the next great city that we visited was Oslo, the first but not last Norwegian trip this year (wink, wink).

So, lets start with 5 things that must be on every first visit to the lovely capital of Norway.

Oslo Opera House

This superb building is made so accessible for everyone thanks to its great pedestrian plaza all the way up to the top. It’s a great and easy walk and takes you to a wonderful view of the city and the fjord. You can take great pictures of Oslo but also the Opera with its perfect geometrical proportions. This place is great not only during daytime, but also by night when it can be a peaceful and insightful walk all the way the top and if you get lucky, you can be all by yourself for an intimate date with the city and the sea.

2. Ekebergparken city view

As I said in previous materials published here, I always love a view from above the city. Thanks to its geography, Oslo has quite a healthy variation of seaside and hills. One emblematic place from where to enjoy a great panorama is from the spot near the Ekebergrestauranten. Take some good and solid shoes because is a bit of a hike. We had a lot of ice on the path and going up and down was quite the adventure. Not to say one epic fall on my behalf.

If you’re already up there, be sure to enjoy the Ekeberg Sculpture Park for a breath of fresh air, some art and nature very close to the city.

3. Akerselva river trail

One of the least know attractions in Oslo is the path along the Akerselva River which flows from the Maridalsvannet into the Oslo Fjord and was the boarder between the city and the countryside with numerous industrial activities in the past. Nowadays, it’s a great 10 km walk along the river with many waterfalls, industrial buildings, bridges, cafes, restaurants and… ducks.

I started my journey in Vaterlandsparken and made my way up to the most famous and photographed waterfall on the trail – Vøyenfallene. Along the path, it feels like the city is left behind and you enter a trail that takes you through a voyage in nature and the power of water. The path is a great place to clear your mind and enjoy how Oslo reconfigured this place and kept it’s original architecture and respect for nature.

4. Vigeland Park

Known as Frogner Park by locals, or the park with scuptures made by Gustav Vigeland, is on of the largest scuptures parks in the word made by a single artist. Is has 212 sculptures made from bronze and granite displayed along a bridge over the pond, a fountain, the great Monolith, consisting of 121 human figures, and the Wheel of Life. It’s just one of the places that you cannot miss if in Oslo. Also, being so well know, be prepared for a lot of visitors in the park.

5. Walk on the Oslo Fjord via Akershus Fortress

What can be more refreshing that a walk on a sunny day in February on the Oslo Fjord. The wind from the sea and the gentle sunshine is just what you need. I suggest the Oslo Opera as a starting point, along the Rådhusgata street and through the Akershus Fortress, from where you can enjoy a lovely sunset, and pass near the Oslo City Hall and Aker Brygge towards the modern part of the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art.

For an even better sunset the Tjuvholmen Badeplass is a great place to sit down and enjoy the end of the day. Make it more cosy with a coffee and a cinnamon bun, maybe. Stay close for my next adventures and follow my Insta account where I post new pictures almost daily.

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Marseille memories

I’m not really a heat and sun lover so for me the best time to be at the seaside is in any other season than summer. So the begining March was a really great time to explore the city of southern France – Marseille.

I honestly did not know much about the city before I got there so I just let Marseille tell me it’s story and well… I liked it. The cold wind did not stop me from a walk in Vieux Port on the first day, close to where we stayed, and the promenade on the seaside next to the Mucem Museum. There is something about the sea and the wind that makes it so damn attractive for me, probably the force and anger of nature at its best.

The most proeminent view from many places of the city is the Notre-Dame de la Garde Basilica – the place I knew that was on the top of the list to go to. Situated on a hilltop we had quite an adventurous road all the way up, getting a bit lost, but in the end it offered a premium view of the entire city, the sea and the islands close by – one of them hosting the Château d’If, the setting for the Count of Monte Cristo. I loved it so much, that I new from the start that a night view would also be awesome – acompanied even by a beer or two along the sunset and the later city lights.

The next day we took a walk on the seashore, also spiced with a bit of rose wine shhh…, and ended up without even planning to one of the most pictoresque places called Port de Malmousque. This place offers a splendid sunset in the sea and as much privacy as you would need just to gather your thoughts and connect with the energy of the water. A lighthouse and the island far off complete this unique marine painting. It really made this day worth.

A bit lost, but spectacular views were still on the table

After we enjoyed the sunset and it started getting dark on the way home, wandering on the streets around rue d’Endoume without a map was also a fun activity to really explore the neighbourhood and just take a long walk, admire the architecture and maybe imagine what our life would be living in this part of the world. The footsteps made that day are still quite legendary in my phone history.

My trip to Marseille was a bit short, but it was really worth it considering that the COVID lockdown followed right after that. They were probably the last great days of freedom for many years to come and did not know and apreciate it at that time.

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When in Paris…

When it comes to Paris it’s a little bit hard not to come up with something that’s not been done or seen, but the few days I’ve spent the first time there, including my birthday, got me a few ideas of how to take in the best of the city.

City view from Sacré-Cœur

Day or nightime, it’s doesn’t really matter. The view from the steps of the Sacré-Cœur is breathtaking and gives you perspective on how the city looks from above. While it’s more revealing in the daytime, at night it’s more fun, with many people having drinks on the steps and having the city glow at your feet. My recomandation is to take a beer or a bottle of wine and enjoy it with your loved one or friends.

Enjoy a coffee in Tuileris Garden

The famous garden is a great place to hang around when the weather is nice. Since I was there in the middle of autumn, the weather was just great for my taste. The movable and pretty comfy chairs can help you find the best spot in the park. You can easily take a quick nap in the sun light, have a take-away meal or just enjoy a coffee like I did. Guilty as charged, I do love my Pumpkin Spice Latte in full season. If you fancy a museum you have the Orangerie on one side and the well known Louvre on the other side of the park. Another place I really enjoyed was Luxembourg Garden very close to the Panthéon and the Sorbonne University.

Père Lachaise

Seems that on my trips I always manage to get myself to a cemetary. At least none of them look like what you’ve imagined. The Père Lachaise garden cemetary is globally well known for appearing in many films and has quite an unique touch. Having a walk here is very peaceful and thankfully, doesn’t give you that morbid vibe I get from an usual resting place. You can walk around randomly or trying to find the tombstones of artists like Maria Callas or Jim Morrison. Emphasis on TRY.

Walk until your feet drop

Because Paris is famous for so many well known sites the best way is to make a route that includes most of them, but you’ll need a few days. I love walking so I had no issue taking the long road from the place we stayed in Montmartre towards the atractions we’ve planned on seing. This included on day 1 a walk towards Palais Garnier, then across the Seine and all the way to the Eiffel Tower, and on the way back the Louvre, ending with a night view from the Sacré-Cœur. On day 2 another walk included the Moulin Rouge and then towards Champs-Élysées ending with the Arc de Triomphe. I also recomend a night walk on the avenue when it’s less crowded and you can really enjoy the architecure. You can dedicate another day for a walk just through Montmartre and enjoy it’s specifical and charming atmosphere, but get equipped because being on a hill, there will be many ups and downs.

Dessert & glass of wine

After all the walking, sightseeing and, maybe shopping, all you want to do is sit down and gather your thoughts. Paris can be a lot and the best way to take a break from it all is to just enjoy a dessert and a great glass of wine. I’m a more introverted person so it was pretty hard finding a place to actually have some privacy, since all cafes and restaurants have small tables and almost-to-none space between you and well, any other stranger. I was in luck to find a great place in Montmartre and had a creme brûlée and a white wine.

It was really hard for me to make a selection of the many things I’ve seen in just a few days and needed to process all the greatness that this city has to offer. So much history, so many sites I’ve heard of all my life that being there is just so moving and really confirms why it’s one of the greatest cities of the world.

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Top 5 must see places in Stockholm

The capital of Sweeden was on my to do list for some time now and the starting of 2022 seemed like a good excuse to go up north. I don’t really mind the cold and I developed a special connection with the Scandinavian culture for some time now (job wise and not only). So let’s get at it:

Monteliusvägen

The best and easiest way to get to understand a city and its sorroundings is to either see it on a map, or, if there is a possibility, from a hill top or a really heigh building. In Stockholm you have the 500 meter long trail that offers a splendid view if the city with the lake Mälaren, the City Hall and the old city, Gamla Stan.

For an even better view, not far away, you can find Skinnarviksberget, the highest natural point in the city. But take care, the road up there is a bit rocky, so choose your shoes wisely. Also, in the winter the wind can get pretty rough up there.

2. Skansen

If you only choose to visit the capital and have no time to visit the swedish countryside, the Skansen open air museum is perfect to see typical old nordic architecture. The park has over 300.000 sqm and you can enjoy quite the long walk while talking a trip to old Sweden. You can also find a zoo with regular farm animals and some nordic ones like seals or raindeers. The ticket to Skansen is around 15 euros and it’s worth it.

3. Gamla Stan

The Old City of Stockholm is probably on every must see list. The small island is filled with buildings inspired from North German architecture and many narrow streets. The most remarcable is the square right in front of the Nobel Prize museum and it’s also the heighest point on the island. I recommend enjoying a walk without a map on the island and getting inspired on the old streets. Most of them have many small shops, cafe’s and restaurants, so don’t miss out on a delicious kanelbulle and a good latte!

4. Stockholm City Hall

An outstanding and monumental building that can be observed from many points of the city is the Stockholm City Hall. It lays right on the lake tip and the garden can be visited freely having a wonderful display of arches, a view of the city on the lake and during winter time, the broken ice flows and makes a memorably crispy sound.

5. Skogskyrkogården

The UNESCO listed cemetery is a peaceful and solemn place to visit. The simplicity and deep rooted connection with nature via life and death mix well together and offer a mind-clearing walk just a few tunnelbana (metro) stations from the city center.

EXTRA

Vete Katten

You cannot visit Sweden without having at least a slice of Prinsesstårta (Princess Cake), the typical swedish cake with raspberry, marzipan and vanilla cream. The best place to have it in Stockholm is the 1928 founded Vete Katten (the weat cat or the cat knows) bakery. Along with many other great cakes, the Princess Cake stands out through it’s green look, but also it’s awesome taste.

Don’t forget that this is my personal Top 5 recomandation and that the city of Stockholm offers many, many other great places to visit and enjoy.

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Trecut vs. Prezent: Muzeul Antipa

Unul dintre muzeele senzatie, care a atras in ultimii ani atentia mass media, dar si un public numeros, este in mod cert Muzeul de Istorie Naturala “Grigore Antipa”, sau pe numele sau prescurtat, Muzeul Antipa. Datorita unui facelift interior al cladirii, finalizat in anul 2011, muzeul este noul loc unde tehnologia si istoria se imbina, oferind astfel o experienta de neuitat oricarui vizitator, fie el pasionat sau nu de istorie naturala sau biodiversitatea Terrei.

Cladirea Muzeului Zoologic, de atunci, a fost realizata intre anii 1904 – 1908, sub indrumarea arhitectului Mihail Rocco, dar aducandu-si contributia si arhitectul Grigore Cerkez, cel caruia i-a fost dedicat un tur arhitectural de curand. Data de 24 mai 1908 reprezinta momentul deschiderii noului muzeu sub grija directorului Grigore Antipa. Acesta s-a aflat la conducerea muzeului timp de mai bine de 40 de ani (pana la realizarea cladirii de pe Kiseleff nr. 1, muzeul a functionat si in alte locatii). Trecerea anilor nu a adus modificari substantiale exteriorului cladirii, elementele lipsa fiind doar basorelieful si vulturul de pe fronton.

In interior, muzeul este dispus pe trei niveluri, la subsol gasindu-se colectia “Biodiversitatea Romaniei”, la parter “Fauna Mondiala”, iar la primul etaj sunt prezentate mai multe teme precum originile si evolutiile vietii, paleontologie, lumea insectelor sau complexitatea speciei umane. Programul de vizitare este de miercuri pana duminica, la orele 10:00 – 20:00, in perioada 22 martie – 31 octombrie, si 10:00 – 18:00, miercuri – vineri si 10:00 – 20:00 sambata si duminica in perioada 1 noiembrie – 21 martie.

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Scoala Normala de Fete din Arad

Impunatoarea cladire de pe Strada Lucian Blaga nr. 9 din Arad este in prezent parte a Liceului Pedagogic “Dimitrie Tichindeal”, fiind monument istoric clasat sub codul LMI AR-II-m-B-00487. Aici a functionat initial Scoala Normala de Fete.

Cladirea a fost finalizata in anul 1909, in stil Secession. Parterul scolii cuprinde un sir de arcade, in centru avand o intrare monumentala boltita si sprijinita de cate patru coloane de inspiratie gotica pe ambele parti, cu capiteluri in forma de buchete de trandafir.

Deasupra boltei se afla si o placa comemorativa ce aminteste de ateliarul de tamplarie ce se afla in curtea scolii, unde pictorul Mihaly Munkacsy a lucrat ca ucenic tamplar.

Pe fatada cladirii putem observa mai multe basoreliefuri de tip friza cu tematica scolii, doua cu mai multe fete care danseaza si cate una cu o tanara care ofera o carte unui copil si una in care o tanara invata un copil sa cante la harpa.

In ambele parti ale cladirii se inalta patru turnuri de inspiratie medievala, doua mai mari la margini si doua mai mici in interior. Intre ferestre putem observa o serie de placi de faianta, o caracteristica specifica stilului secession.

In prezent cladirea scolii este o adevarata incantare ochilor oricarui trecator, incadrandu-se perfect in arhitectura Strazii Lucian Blaga.

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Bucurestiul de la inaltime – Sky Tower

Bucurestiul nu poate fi vazut mai frumos si mai viu decat din cel mai inalt punct de observare al acestuia, respectiv cea mai inalta cladire din Romania, Sky Tower. Cu o inaltime de 137 m, transpus in 37 de etaje, Sky Tower chiar ofera o experienta unica celor dornici sa isi cunoasca orasul dintr-o perspectiva diferita.

Singurul dezavantaj este ca nu exista o terasa deschisa de unde sa se poata fotografia, astfel incat fotografiile trebuiesc facute prin geam, lucru care te poate pune in dificultate de multe ori, lucru pe care il vei observa si in galeria de mai jos.